The standard flake system is the one you've seen in every "garage makeover" post online. Epoxy base coat, full coverage decorative flake (or quartz), and a clear polyaspartic topcoat to seal it all in. It's the most popular system among professional installers and the go-to for homeowners who want the classic multi-color speckled look.
Here's how to do it yourself.
What you'll need
Products:
- MVB Primer (RS-MVB) — if your moisture test requires it
- 100% Solids Epoxy (RS-EP-100 for standard cure, RS-EP-100F for fast cure) — your base coat
- Decorative vinyl flake or quartz broadcast — about 1 lb per 10 SF for full coverage
- Polyaspartic topcoat (RS Poly 90 or RS Poly 90 Fast) — your clear seal coat
Tools:
- 1/8" V-notch squeegee
- 3/8" nap lint-free roller and extension pole
- Spiked shoes
- Mixing drill with paddle
- 5-gallon buckets
- Floor scraper (for after broadcast)
- Shop vac or leaf blower
Before you start: Concrete must be prepped — clean, profiled to CSP 2–3, dry, dust-free. See our prep guide.
Step 1: Prime (if needed)
Same as any system. If you have moisture issues, lay down the MVB primer and let it cure before moving forward.
Step 2: Mix and apply the epoxy base coat
Mix: Combine Part A and Part B at a 2:1 ratio by volume (check your specific product label). Mix thoroughly for 3 minutes with a drill and paddle. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bucket.
Important: Once mixed, 100% solids epoxy generates heat as it begins to cure. Don't leave it sitting in the bucket — pour it out onto the floor within a few minutes of mixing. The clock is ticking.
Apply: Pour in ribbons across the floor. Spread with the notched squeegee to an even 10 mil thickness. Backroll with the lint-free roller. Work in manageable sections — you want to keep a wet edge.
Work time: RS-EP-100 (standard cure) gives you about 45 minutes at 75°F. RS-EP-100F (fast cure) gives you about 20 minutes. In a hot Texas garage, plan for less.
Step 3: Broadcast the flake
This happens immediately after applying each section of epoxy. The epoxy must be wet for the flake to embed.
Full broadcast: Grab a handful of flake, toss it upward (not at the floor — upward, so it drifts down randomly), and keep going until the entire surface is covered. You should not be able to see epoxy underneath. This takes more flake than people expect. Budget about 50 lbs for a two-car garage (roughly 400 SF).
Partial broadcast: If you want a lighter, more subtle look, reduce the amount. But for the classic look, full coverage is the way.
Walk on the wet epoxy in spiked shoes to reach all areas. Broadcast as you go — don't let any section of epoxy start to set before it gets flake.
Step 4: Let the epoxy cure
Once the entire floor is broadcast, leave it alone. The epoxy needs to cure before you can do anything else.
- RS-EP-100 (standard): Walk-on in about 12 hours. Ready for topcoat in 18–24 hours.
- RS-EP-100F (fast): Walk-on in about 6 hours. Ready for topcoat in 12–16 hours.
Don't rush this. If you topcoat too early, you can trap solvents and cause adhesion problems.
Step 5: Scrape and clean
Once the epoxy is cured and hard, you'll have a thick layer of loose flake sitting on top of the embedded flake. Scrape it off with a floor scraper. Work the whole floor, knocking off anything that isn't firmly stuck.
Then vacuum or blow the entire floor clean. Every loose chip and dust particle needs to go. The surface should feel like rough sandpaper — textured but solid.
Step 6: Apply the polyaspartic topcoat
This is the clear coat that seals in the flake, adds UV protection, and gives the floor its final gloss and durability. Without this coat, the bare epoxy underneath will yellow in sunlight within months.
Mix: Part A and Part B, 1:1 by weight. Stir thoroughly for 2–3 minutes.
Apply: Pour in ribbons, spread with the squeegee, backroll. The polyaspartic will flow into the texture of the flake and fill the gaps. You may need to use slightly more material than a flat-floor application because the flake creates more surface area.
Thickness: 8–12 mil over the flake.
Step 7: Cure
- Walk-on: 4–6 hours (standard cure) or 1–2 hours (fast cure)
- Light use: 24 hours
- Vehicles: 48–72 hours
- Full cure: 7 days
The timeline
Here's a realistic schedule for a two-car garage:
Day 1 (morning): Final prep, prime if needed. Let primer cure. Day 1 (afternoon) or Day 2 (morning): Apply epoxy base coat and broadcast flake. Let cure overnight. Day 2 or 3: Scrape loose flake, clean floor, apply polyaspartic topcoat. Day 3 or 4: Light foot traffic. Day 4–5: Move your car back in.
With the fast-cure versions of both products, you can compress this into a tight weekend.
Why the polyaspartic topcoat is non-negotiable
Bare epoxy yellows. It's a chemical fact — UV light breaks down the molecular structure and turns it amber-yellow over time. In a garage with sunlight coming through the door, you'll see it within weeks.
Polyaspartic is UV-stable. It doesn't yellow. It also adds significant chemical and abrasion resistance. The topcoat is what makes the system last 10–15 years instead of 2–3.
Never skip the topcoat. It's the most important coat in the system.